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RV Hookups Explained: Water, Power, and Waste 101

  • Writer: Jonathan Dies
    Jonathan Dies
  • Oct 3, 2025
  • 5 min read

Picture this: you pull into a lakeside site near DFW at sunset. The kids want lights. The A/C needs power. You want a hot shower. Everything depends on three simple connections—power, water, and sewer.


This guide shows you how to hook up fast, stay safe, and keep things clean. I’ve helped many first-time renters do this at parks across North Texas, and these steps work.


What “RV hookups” mean

  • Power: electricity from the campsite pedestal to your RV.

  • Water: pressurized “city water” from the spigot to your RV.

  • Sewer: a sealed path from your tanks to the park’s sewer.

A site with all three is a full hookup. A site with power and water only is a partial hookup. Many Texas state parks offer partial hookups plus a dump station.



Safety and sanitation first

  • Wear disposable gloves for any sewer task.

  • Keep water gear and sewer gear in separate bins.

  • Turn pedestal breakers OFF before plugging or unplugging.

  • Use a white/blue drinking-water hose only for fresh water.

  • Never leave the black tank valve open during your stay.


Your basic hookup kit

  • Surge protector / Electrical Management System (EMS)

  • Power cord for your rig (30-amp or 50-amp)

  • Dogbone adapters (30↔50, 15↔30 if needed)

  • Drinking-water hose (25–50 ft)

  • Water-pressure regulator (fixed or adjustable)

  • Inline water filter (optional but helpful)

  • Sewer hose with bayonet fittings and clear elbow

  • Sewer hose support to create a downhill slope

  • Tank treatment for the black tank

  • Gloves, bleach wipes, paper towels, flashlight


Full vs. partial hookups: know your site

  • Full hookup = Power + Water + Sewer (ideal for longer stays).

  • Partial hookup = Power + Water (dump tanks at the station before leaving).

  • Power-only or Water-only = Common at smaller or rustic sites.

Booking tip for DFW: summer heat pushes A/C loads. If your RV has two A/C units, a 50-amp site is the easy choice.


Power: shore power 101

30-amp vs 50-amp

  • 30-amp (three-prong plug, up to ~3,600 watts): common on smaller units. Manage loads.

  • 50-amp (four-prong plug, up to ~12,000 watts across two legs): common on larger rigs.

Step-by-step: connect power safely

  1. Park, level, and chock wheels.

  2. Go to the pedestal. Flip the breaker OFF.

  3. Plug your surge protector into the pedestal.

  4. Read the lights. Confirm proper wiring and safe voltage.

  5. Connect your power cord to the surge protector, then to the RV inlet.

  6. Flip the breaker ON. Verify outlets and A/C work.

Load management on 30-amp: run one high-draw device at a time. If a breaker trips, shut devices off, reset the pedestal, and stagger use.


Water: clean, pressurized supply

Why the regulator and filter matter

  • Campground pressure can be high. A pressure regulator protects lines and fixtures.

  • An inline filter improves taste and removes sediment.

Step-by-step: connect city water

  1. Turn the RV water pump OFF.

  2. Attach the pressure regulator to the spigot.

  3. Attach the filter (if using) to the regulator or to the hose.

  4. Connect the drinking-water hose: spigot → regulator/filter → city water inlet on the RV.

  5. Open the spigot slowly. Check each joint for leaks.

Quick tips

  • Sanitize hose ends before use; flush the hose for 10–15 seconds.

  • Use a Y-splitter if sites share a spigot.

  • In cold snaps, use a heated hose or insulate lines.

Filling the fresh tank (if the site lacks water)

  • Move the hose to the fresh water fill port.

  • Fill until full, then cap the port.

  • Do not leave both city water and the fill port connected.


Sewer: simple, clean, and sealed

Know your tanks

  • Black tank = toilet waste.

  • Gray tank = sinks and shower water.

Keep the black valve closed until you dump. You can leave the gray valve closed to build a rinse, or open it during long stays if park rules allow.

Step-by-step: connect the sewer hose

  1. Put gloves on. Confirm both tank valves are closed.

  2. Twist the sewer hose onto the RV outlet (bayonet fitting).

  3. Add the clear elbow to monitor flow.

  4. Insert and seal the hose at the site sewer inlet.

  5. Set the sewer hose support so the hose slopes downhill.

Step-by-step: dump like a pro

  1. Open the black tank valve. Let it drain fully.

  2. Close the black valve. If you have a black-tank flush, run it briefly.

  3. Open the gray tank valve to rinse the hose with soapy water.

  4. Close the gray valve. Rinse gear. Cap the outlet.

  5. Add tank treatment and a few gallons of water back into the black tank.

Odor control basics

  • Always keep some water in the black tank after dumping.

  • Use RV-safe toilet paper and the right chemicals.

  • Keep seals tight and the hose supported.


The correct setup order (fast start)

  1. Park, level, chock, and stabilize.

  2. Power: breaker OFF → surge protector → cord → breaker ON.

  3. Water: regulator → filter → hose → city water inlet.

  4. Sewer: connect hose and support; leave black closed.


The correct tear-down order (clean finish)

  1. Dump black, then gray; rinse and store sewer gear.

  2. Turn water OFF; disconnect and drain the hose.

  3. Breaker OFF; unplug RV and surge protector.

  4. Stow gear; remove chocks; final walk-around.


Troubleshooting for first-timers

  • No power inside

    • Check pedestal breaker → surge protector lights → RV breakers → GFCI outlets.

  • Low water pressure

    • Confirm regulator setting; look for hose kinks; clean or replace the filter.

  • Breaker keeps tripping

    • Reduce high-draw devices on 30-amp. Consider a 50-amp site for bigger rigs.

  • Slow sewer drain

    • Improve hose slope; confirm caps are removed; wait until the black tank is at least 2/3 full before dumping.


Campground etiquette that keeps neighbors happy

  • Keep the sewer connection sealed and off the ground with a support.

  • Do not rinse sewer gear at the drinking-water spigot.

  • Coil hoses neatly and keep everything within your site line.

  • Follow quiet hours during setup and tear-down.


DFW-area planning tips

  • Book 30-amp vs 50-amp based on your RV. Summer heat in DFW is real. Two A/C units run best on 50-amp.

  • Popular weekends fill fast at North Texas lakes and state parks. Reserve early.

  • If this is your first trip, consider delivery and setup. Our team can place the RV, complete hookups, and walk you through the controls.


Quick reference: first-trip checklists

Arrival checklist

  • Level, chock, stabilize.

  • Power connected with surge protection.

  • Water connected with regulator and filter.

  • Sewer connected with a downhill slope.

  • Test A/C, outlets, faucets, water heater, and toilet.

Departure checklist

  • Dump black, then gray; rinse and store.

  • Water off; drain hose; stow.

  • Breaker off; unplug; stow surge protector and cord.

  • Walk the site; confirm caps and gear.

  • Chocks out; slides in; do a final light check.


How DFW RV Rentals makes hookups easy

We serve Dallas–Fort Worth travelers with clean, late-model RVs at fair prices. Every unit is cleaned, sanitized, and inspected after each trip. Ports and valves are clearly labeled for easy hookup. We offer:

  • Starter kits for first-time renters: surge protector, regulator, hoses, and tank treatment.

  • Phone support from a local team that RVs with their families too.

  • Flexible packages for weekend trips, tailgates, and long-term stays.

We started DFW RV Rentals because we love RVing. We want your first hookup to feel simple and safe, so your focus stays on the fun part—time with your crew.


Ready to hook up with confidence in DFW?

If you want a step-by-step walkthrough in person, we can show you each connection before you take the keys. Call our crew, pick your RV, and we’ll get you road-ready.


Your custom RV experience is waiting.

 
 
 

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